Lucinda O’Sullivan’s restaurant review: ‘This old family favourite now hosts a spectacular glass-box restaurant nestled in neo subtropical gardens’

Come the first signs of spring each year, this roving restaurant critic always gets itchy feet as the urge rises to get on the road again. The timing also tends to coincide with the annual reopening of Kelly’s Resort Hotel in Rosslare, following a period of winter closure during which they recharge, revamp or add some new feature to their facilities. It really is a spectacular operation. Having started as a tea rooms in 1895, five generations of Kelly’s later, it’s more than a hotel,...